Surfing on ocean

Without accompanying with my lab mates in that I joined tutorial on 4/1, I went to Waikiki beach alone while my single lens camera and passport on hand. It is very dangerous that I went to swimming and left my belongings alone. Originally, I thought I just lay my backs on beach and don’t nothing. But I found there are surfing course I can take by passing 35 USD. Even though it’s not cheap, compared with my belongings were stolen, it is quite cheap option. I think I’m lucky to find out a stand provide a surfing lesson when most of stands are going to be closed around 16:30. When I asked this stand, they told me I should take it tomorrow while I have to present on 4/2. It seems I didn’t have chance but asking them to take care of my stuffs and payed tips for thanking them to keep it. After I changed my swimming suit, I was preparing to swim and they told me do you want to take a lesson? Wow, it is really surprised I can learn surf! I agreed cheerfully.

My coach is Mr. Huang who is the Hawaiian Chinese. Besides, I have two "classmates," Susan and Betty. We learn the procedures of surfing on the beach. First, you lie on board and paddle the wave. Supposed you are far away enough from beach (the wave is definitely bigger than the wave near beach.), you catch the rear of board and kneel down like the following figure:
___Orz__
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Haha, I think the above figure presents the action perfectly! Then, you stretch your left leg on board and then try to stand up. Of course, you should cured your leg, so you can surf with waves. It sounds easy but it is difficult to make it. I mean to stand up! As soon as I try to stand up, it takes no second I fall into ocean. No worry that the depth of the sea, but you have to spend more strength you climb up to the board. It consumes you energies as well as paddles the waves away from beach. You know, to surf with waves cpsts less than 10 seconds; however, you spend 3 minutes to go back~ So the procedures are repeated again and again. Although the course is lasted only for one hour, I felt I’m totally exhausted after 20 minutes. My arms were sored and painful.
I think I need a rest, so that I was floating on ocean and seeing beautiful scenery from this angle. My coach called me far away "Peter~~ come  back~~" I replied "Yeah, I will ~~" I did my best to be back. My energies lost quickly when I went back. Thus, for the last two times I surf, Mr. Huang "drag" me back. I’m as if a small boat and he drags me toward destination! He just used his leg to catch my board and I do nothing (I have no energy at all) but lying on board. Haha, I’m heartily grateful for his efforts for doing that twice. For my last time to do that, I decide not too greedy. I mean I won’t stand up completely which catches the board and stand half attitude! Yap, I succeed and enjoy the speed pushed by waves! Haha, it is really enjoyable at that time.^^
After the course, my classmates asked "Whether you surf successfully?"
"Nope, but I saw both of you can surf well" I offered. Thus, I felt it is shame I can’t do better than girls. Of course, it is relief that to know they surfed before~ Haha, we took pics after the lesson. Even though I was tired to death I vomited when I "landed" on beach, I did my best to smile. You can see the people below :  )

After I went back to hotel after 22:30, I told my friends and lab mates about my schedule of suring. They were admired it and one said "You are the son of beech!" So they must be regret they didn’t surf on ocean. Until I told it is really exhausted to surf, they breath a sign of relief about it^^